Kilimanjaro (the great white mountain) locals pronounce it 'Kilima Njaro'

                                                                 Kilimanjaro (Kilima Njaro)
                                                                                 19,340 feet

          There are many routes to trek up Mt. Kilimanjaro (Kilima Njaro) and we chose the 'Machame route.' It is a six-day trek encompassing four days up and two days down. We began hiking at around 3,000 feet and that first day, and we ended up at 10,230 ft, where our first camp was for the night.          
           The parking lot looked like an Everest expedition with 15-20 sherpas and porters carrying loads on their heads, strapped to their backs and and lugging bags in both hands.
          Doug McCartney was my hiking partner. He resided in Gardner, MT and worked in Yellowstone National Park doing historic preservation on cabins. This first day was within our hiking abilities. I worked in Glacier National Park, and our highest peaks were within the days reach. We began hiking through a cloud forest with mist constantly draping down from clouds that scarfed around the low lying hills that fed the giant vegetation. Ferns and other palm tree looking plants looked like they were on steroids. Long Spanish moss hung from deciduous branches and limbs. Plantains, ebony trees, camphora, were among the plant diversity. camphora has white dust or sap like substance that can cause blindness. Some of the thickest understory I have ever seen. This cloud forest received 18-28 feet of rain per year. Pink orchids and impatience flowers grew in the misty forest.

Impatiens Flower

               The trails were maintained fairly well with drains cut into the tread with turnpikes elevating the trail above wet spots and wooden checks and steps set in place.

               Our porters and guides lead most people that weren't use to hiking such heights or distances and were constantly warning us about elevation and speed by saying "Poly, Poly" (slowly, slowly). Doug and I were passing by groups and cruising up the mountain at a great clip and both of us were feeling great.
              One of the ladies in our group Elle, who was a radio host in Bozeman, MT, made it to camp about 11:30 pm. She is all heart and laughter. The saying goes, 'Elevation doesn't discriminate. Slowly but surely. Young testosterone-filled junkies that charge up this beast too fast will not make it to the summit."

me, Benjamin Polley named by Doug, Sir Lawerence of Arabia

            Woke up to a rather clear and cold morning with a fresh dusting of frost littering the ground. Today, day 2, we will be hiking up to Camp Shira at 12,692 feet and a 2,462 ft elevation gain. Camp Shira lies in the shadows of Kilimanjaro. We hiked for fours hours with a few long breaks. The oxygen is getting thin and Doug and I decided to hike slower and with the group. A sea of clouds ripples and rises in all directions looming on the horizon like an ocean with waves of clouds crashing up against the spines and ridges of a volcanic, high- alpine desert and below camp Shira. The rock is pumice rock. The flora and geology of this alien moonscape is determined by the aridity. Scrub brush all around where shade is hard to come by except behind a few sparse trees, rock out-croppings, overhangs and in the comfort of our tents. Seeking shelter from the sun's intense UV rays is a must and from being at such high altitudes, where sun-poisoning, sunstroke and dehydration are all factors in this harsh, inhospitable wasteland. At the same time, the beauty is intoxicating.

     

Mt. Mawenzi towers above the sea of clouds in the background.

            Camp Shira lies mostly above treeline, for the most part, especially along the western flank of the ridgeline. Further back away from the windswept edges shrub brush, bushes and other small trees grow close to the ground, crouching low, seeking shelter, safety, stability and strength from the fierce winds that sweep above the cloud forest. The cloud forest dominates the lower elevation that cicumnavigates this massif. A massif is not one mountain but consists largely of many mountains making it a complex. Kilimanjaro is a massif and the summit is actually called "Uhuru" (which means African freedom and independence).

            A constant cloud cover dispenses  a cool, wet moisture at all times over the cloud forest. Late in the day, clouds rise  and fall with the breath of Africa, covering the western flank of this mighty massif. Kilimanjaro is an ancient volcano that exploded millions of years ago. Spires of rock rise above the ocean of clouds.

             Either white-necked or white backed Ravens circle the landscape, flying and soaring, riding the thermals while they maneuver down to campsites where trash litters the ground. Their searching eyes comb the area for crumbs and morsels of food left by thousands of careless tourists that climb the mountain annually. Shadows spreading over the land from the creature who rules. some say this bird is a messenger, bringer of good and sometimes, evil (the trickster). According, to some mythology he is the creator especially in Native American legend and lore. Here on Kilimanjaro, the white-shouldered Raven flies with wings outstretched, feathered fingers curl and unfurl. It flies through the sky, its feathers ruffled and muffled from the strong gusts of winds at this high elevation motioning others to take notice of this blackened-robed, white-frocked high priestess of magic and mystery.

             Jackal scat found on the side of the trail just 200-300 ft below Shira camp. Amazing, the adaptability and versatility of these four-legged canine creatures which resemble the North American Coyote. I have seen the coyote high up on peaks in the northern Rockies in all seasons of the year.

              Last night, Elle didn't get to camp until 11 pm. She began hiking at 830 am.  She hiked for fifteen hours.  A shout out to our guides and porters and all who it made it possible; Onyx-head guide, Benjamin-assistantt guide, Emmanuel-cook, Coleman-waiter, Eliasi-waiter, Toba-dishwasher, Dakari-assistantt cook, Jackson-porter, Maliki-porter, Agustino-porter, Hamiso-porter, Bura-porter, Waziri-porter, Bernard-porter, William-porter, Chama-porter, Rajabu-porter, Omari-Rastaman-porter, Frater/Pacha-assistant guide, Amiri-waiter, cook, Thabi-porter, Lukasi Burhani-porter.
              Day 3, we hiked to camp Barranco. We ascended 2200 ft and came down 2000 feet. Today we acclimatized. I arrived stumbling like a drunk into camp with a headache that felt like my head was in a vice and someone else was cranking away at the handle. I fell numerous times. I was beyond caring and even beyond the desire to get to the summit. While porters set up our camp I laid on the ground like a drunk in the gutter. Once our tent was set up I took Tylenol and slept three hours. I rose up for dinner and barely ate a third of my meal and normally my appetite is out-of-control. I felt nauseous. The dinner consisted of delicious zucchinni soup, mashed potatoes with a gravy vegetable sauce consisting of carrots, peppers, cauliflower. I told myself that if I didn't feel better the next day that I would turn around and head down because I had nothing to prove.

       
          At Camp Barranco we caught up with Peter Ponsa and Mike England. They took a different route. They were going to try to ski some of the glaciers but didn't end up doing it.

remember this was 2006. The glaciers I am sure are much smaller now if they even still exist

        The great white mountain of Kilimanjaro is called this for its glaciers. The glaciers are melting and disappearing quickly like they are everywhere else. They melt during the day with direct light from the sun and then at mid-day the dark clouds break away from the pure white flock that hang over the valley floor. The clouds on the outer edges, closest to the mountain rise and fall with the breath of Africa.

         The next day I woke up feeling fine. So, I decided to go on and we hiked up to Barafu hut (base camp) at 15,200 ft. We hiked up past groundsels (resemble palm trees), we hiked up over rock staircases past streams watering down off of melting glaciers. Varieties of grasses and forbs still grew in the shadows and crevices of rocks. Orange lichen and mosses were the only other living things at that elevation and they grew on rocks.
        (To be continued).